Two weeks of relax and sport climbing in Oliana.
I’ve been to Spain every winter since I was 16…and I did it once again ;)
Usually I always went to Siurana for the Christmas period, but after so many trips spent in the same place, seeing the same things and meeting the same people, I wanted to change. Also Babsi did several trips to Siurana and Margalef and she was motivated to see something new. We were both really curious about Oliana, and so, after a quick check, we immediately booked our flights!
After our last trip in Utah we spent a lot of time climbing in the gym, trying to get our fitness back and training for the upcoming season. Personally I enjoyed a lot that period: it feels great to be at home after so much traveling, training in the gym, trying some projects and making some work done. I felt that my body and my mind needed it, and found some new energies.
In the meanwhile, we also jumped on “Prinzip Hoffnung”, a trad line which has always inspired me and that seemed impossible to me when I was just competing or sport climbing. It’s crazy how something can stay all day long in my mind when I want to climb it! Luckily it went down before our trip to Spain… but that’s another story ;)
So we left Austria with the only idea of climbing as much as possible, without any projects in our minds. It has been a long time since the last time I sport climbed a lot, and we both were super motivated to see a new crag where every routes was new for us. Everyday was very simple: we just climbed without any expectations, enjoyed the moment and hanged out with friends. Except the first rainy day, that was humid and cold , we have been always really lucky with the weather; the sun shined everyday, being warm during the day and perfect for climbing in the afternoon. It’s strange, but I never complained about the heat…probably we needed to get some warm after the cold days on the project at home!
As in every trip, it was great to meet some new and old friends. A big thank goes to Sam and Walker, who found us the perfect accommodation just in the center of the village, so we didn’t have to worry about anything. Everyday we had to drive jut 10 minutes to the crag, making everything even more simple.
The only negative point was the skin…I split my tip on the second day, and after the first week a lot more ;)… I’ve never used so much tape before!
Babsi showed everybody once again how things work, sending pretty fast “Mind Control”and “Fish Eye” and on her second go “T1 Full Equipe” and “Humildes”…. plus many other routes. Strong girl!!!
My highlight was probably the almost on sight of “Fish Eye”, that I missed for just 2 moves…but that luckily I managed to climb later. Except for Joe Blau, one of the best route of the crag for me, where I needed 4 tries, the rest of my trip turned into a “2nd go” or “o.s.” -trip…which is not so bad as you can climb a lot :) After the first 10 days I finished the “classics” of the crag (Joe Blau, Mind Control, Fish eye, Identificacion y places, Paper mullat, El gran blau, Gorillas en la niebla, China Crisis, T1 Full Equipe, La Marroncita, Picos Pardos, Oh mon Dieu, Happy Hour, Mishi,…) and I had a look on some harder lines that I would like to try the next time: it’s always good to leave some unfinished business… it’s a reason to come back!
Anyways the trip was great, I enjoyed it a lot. It’s good sometimes to climb without anything specific in the mind, it “charges” your battery again, and you can enjoy a different aspect of climbing.
Now we are back home, as we have some work to do, but we are flying to Utah within a week. I can’t wait to jam my fingers in some splitters again..I’m sure it will be hard and painful, but awesome :)
Life is sweet!