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About me

copyright: Klaus Dell’Orto

QUICK FACTS:

Birthdate:  13.10.1989, Merano

Home: Bludenz / Bolzano… or my car!

Favourite destinations: South Africa and Utah

Favourite Book: Narziss und Goldmund, H. Hesse

Favourite Films: too many, but “Non ci resta che piangere” always makes me laugh

Favourite Food:  Avocado / blue cheese / tomatoes – sandwich

Greatest Fear:  to sit every day in an office for the rest of my life / get injured 

How I Relax:  taking pictures, reading a good book, listening to music, shaping climbing holds, drinking coffee

Philosophy: Do what you love. Love what you do.

What inspires you?  People who never stop exploring and step up their limits / discuvering new cultures and ways of thinking / the creative work of some photographers

Word to live by: change is the only constant.

 

 

My biography:

How did it all begin?

I was born in Merano, South-tyrol, on October 13, 1989, but I grew up in Bolzano. I first wore a pair of climbing shoes at the age of 11, when my dad proposed me to partecipate in one youth climbing course. I immediately fell in love with it and from that moment climbing has been an essential part of my life. It has become my passion.

My first vertical steps.

I immediately started to spend most of my time in the small local gym, trying to climb as much as I could. After two years, I joined a group of young climbers and I took part in my very first competition, a stage of the Youth Italian Cup. I surprised myself with taking the 2nd position and I became fascinated with this aspect of climbing. Realising I might have potential, I dedicated the following years training as hard as possible to improve myself.  The hard work was rewarded winning the Italian Youth Championship and the Italian Youth Cup in Lead and Boulder.  These successes led to selection for the Italian Youth Team and for the Italian National Team (Lead and Boulder), and I started to travel world-wide to compete. The highlights of my last years as competitions climber were winning the Italian Boulder Championship in 2010, and finishing 3rd in the Italian Lead Championship in 2009.

The first big change.

While continuing to develop my skills in competition climbing, I also started to seriously climb on rock in 2006.  I immediately fell in love with this new challenge and from that moment I began to travel the world to climb and to discover for myself the different types and styles of rocks. I slowly started to feel the desire to quit the competition world, as I realized I couldn’t get to know the real world like that. It wasn’t an easy choice, but thanks also to a bad finger injury, in 2011 I decided to quit the competitions circuit. That decision allowed me to look at the world with different eyes.

A new world.

So, I started to travel to the most famous places all around the world, looking for the best boulders or sport routes. I began to appreciate the social and cultural aspect of every trip, and to look for the best place or line, instead of just for the hardest. I spent the following 2 years traveling and focusing on hard sport climbs, until something changed in my mind again.

A more complete world.

I started to feel bored just doing pure sport climbing or bouldering; I really liked the sport aspect of them, but I felt that I was missing something. I needed to find a more complex game; something where the mental aspect could be more important. In the last years I was always more inspired and attracted by the mountains, so I decided to listen to this desire. That’s how I got into multi pitch and trad-climbing, definitely my actual biggest passions. I love to have to find the correct state of mind before to be able to commit. Everything gets more intense. So, I’m now focused on moving from sport climbing  to trad climbing and alpinism.  My dream is to travel the world climbing on the most revered ‘big walls’ and to discover new unclimbed faces. A challenging dream, but I’m determinate to do everything I can to make it possible.


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